A little wood hardener and bondo later, I now have crisp clean edges. I have to say the end results were quite satisfying. A little wood hardener and bondo and these edges are looking great once again. So I spent.I wont say how many hours.with a heat gun and scrapper, painstakingly removing all the vinyl off one of the insides of the cabinet. ![]() The only thing I could think of was to remove it. In order to get the inside edges looking good, I knew I had to do the same process as I did on the exterior. ![]() But at least I know everything still lines up between the 2 sides. So the top, speaker support, and front control panel/glass support was left in place.Yes, I know it was more work for me doing it this way. I really didn't want to take the entire cabinet apart. The exterior of the cabinet was not bad to sand, use wood hardener, and bondo to get looking good again. This swelling was obviously caused by moisture (as you can see in the first two pictures circled in red). On of my main issues with this cabinet was the mushrooming of the particle board near the T-molding. A lot of time has been spent with little in the way of major changes. It has been a busy week on this restoration. More importantly, its strong!!! It will hold up that side of the cabinet, during active game play, for years to come. The next day, after the clamps came off and I did a little sanding a bondo, I must say that I'm pretty darn happy with how it turned out. I then used biscuits, Keg screws on the inside, glue, and darn near every clamp I own. This was very scary!! It was one of those "Don't screw up. I used the new part to mark where to cut the ugly and proceeded with the amputation. Another bonus to using the good side as a template, the bottom sides of the cabinet will now match. I wanted the cut on the new part to be high enough to remove all the water damage and a few deep gouges, but at the same time, keep as much as the original as possible. I used the good side to make a replacement part. So just like skin cancer, it had to be cut out. There was very little stable meat left in the wood to make that part salvageable. The water damage to that bottom side was extensive. Next time, I would try a brass spray paint instead of gold. On the AR-III, I did a cleaning, capacitor replacement, and replaced the two 2n3055 transistors. On the Power Brick, I did a deep cleaning, treat and sand all the rust, mask to preserve the stickers, spray paint, replace the bridge rectifier, big blue, and the fuses. Keeping in mind that my goal throughout this whole process is to try to keep it as original as possible and to keep the original matching stickers. ![]() After a nice vacuuming, I was able to see my targets. I had to evict the previous tenants bedding that was left in the bottom of the cabinet prior to getting these components. Taking inventory, I saw the AR-III and the Atari Power brick. For those of you that have opened a cabinet that has been in storage in wet place for a long time, you know the smell. The first thing I noticed when I opened the rear of the cabinet was the smell. First order of business, try to stabilize the power supply to I don't blow the cpb when I start her up.
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